Removal of a Jeep steering wheel from its column is famous as one of the most difficult jobs you'll encounter. But it may need to be done, for example in order to remove the body from the frame. As in the case of wheel hub removal, the easiest way to remove a steering wheel is probably to use the right tool for the job.
This steering wheel puller was fabricated by Dan Marsh in Oregon. Its 3-point design and 2-part bottom block should provide very safe and even pressure. Dan also sent a photo of all the pieces required (130K JPEG).
Lars Svensson Willys Service in Sweden made the beauty seen here in 2010. Lars says, "To pull off a steering wheel is almost always a problem (if you want to do it without damage to the steering wheel.) Finally I borrowed a friend's workshop and made a tool that works very good."
See also a photo of it in action (100K JPEG).
The photo at right shows a bearing puller modified by Tom Edwards, which works on the same principle.
Jyotin wrote this summary of how to use a bearing puller to pull a steering wheel:
Tom Edwards: "I do the same thing -- this is the very best way to remove steering wheels. I ground out the center a little more on my bearing puller jaws for a better fit.
"I recommend removing the horn button switch first, but I have made a cap nut to fit around the switch part (35K JPEG). I bought a GM spindle nut of 13/16 20 and welded a cap made from an old drag link part on top of the nut for the puller to fit against (this also creates a 1/8" gap underneath the nut when you tighten it down). Before this I messed up shafts and wheels."
As of 2012, Bradford Willys LLC is marketing a heavy-duty wheel puller. See Bradford Willys Steering Wheel Puller Torture Tested on CJ3B.info.
Bob Harris faced the problem with both a '53 and a '63 CJ-3B: "I made a slide hammer but it was not up to the task. I then modified it so as to utilize a hydraulic jack, which did the job. I was not ill advised -- it takes an extreme amount of pressure to remove the steering wheel. I made a hub puller to remove the rear axles the same way."
Byron used a jack in a different way: "I placed a floor jack on the floor board of the drivers side under the steering wheel. I had to place two 4x4's under it in order to get it to the correct height. I then pumped it up just enough to put tension under the bottom lower end of the wheel. I unscrewed the wheel nut (not all the way) and gave the upper portion of the teering wheel two or three good tugs. I heard and felt a pop and that was it. Very simple, and the key was the tension on the lower end of the steering wheel which prevents the wheel from sagging while pulling."
Brett Briesemeister prefers the low-tech approach: "Gear pullers can damage the top of the shaft if too much pressure is applied. I spoke with Wally, from Wally's Sales and Sevice, Kenosha WI, who has been repairing, restoring and selling jeeps since WWII. The steering shaft should be soaked with penetrating fluid and the wheel removed by climbing into the jeep and rocking the wheel off with your forearms and knees. I tried this with success, after wrecking my shaft with a puller."
John Hubbard adds an important safety note: "Keep the shaft bolt on (but backed off to protect the threads) as you are applying full force to get the wheel off, so that you don't eat the wheel for lunch and incur huge dental bills."
Jeff Spencer cautioned: "Whatever you do, do not be tempted in giving the wheel a tap from underside -- you will be devastated in the result and the repairs needed after."
Clint Spaar mentioned: "The Eastwood Company sells steering wheel repair kits to repair the bakelite. They have free catalogs."
Edward Giandomenico described his solution: "I took some rope and made loops between the spokes on the steering wheel. Each loop went between two spokes on the wheel so I wasn't really pulling on the spokes but on the center part of the wheel. then I hooked a block and tackle up to a beam in my garage. I pulled the loops until they were tight using the block and tackle. Then with the steering wheel nut backed off 1/8 inch, enough to protect the threads on the shaft, but not all the way off, I pounded with a big hammer a couple of times on the end of the shaft and the steering wheel popped right off. Next I used the same block and tackle and hooked it up to my body tub. I lifted the body tub off the frame and over the steering column. I did it all myself and it went very smoothly."
Thanks to all the contributors. -- Derek Redmond
Return to the CJ-3B Tech Tips page.
Visit CJ3B.info on Facebook.
CJ3B Home | Contents | Search | Links | 3A and 3B Community